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 Black &White Photography

Pt. 1 2 3 4 5 6
 

Processing Black-and-White Film: Get Ready, Get Set.

THE REVIVAL OF BLACK-AND-WHITE PHOTOGRAPHY


©NYI Student Gloria Restrepo
Perhaps a quarter of a century ago some of the pundits of photography (synonym for camera magazine contributing editors) tolled the death knell for black-and-white photography. Done, they mournfully
intoned. B&W is dead, gone, finished! Rest in peace, they said. The king is dead, long live the king – and it's name is color photography. As for B&W, of the dead say nothing but good.

But just as Mark Twain informed the world that the reports of his demise were premature so let us now proclaim that B&W photography (and its film developing and printing) are still with us. Not only with us but alive and kickin', as they say down yonder!

Does that mean that color photography has given up the ghost? Oh, certainly not, by no means! Color photography still represents at least 95% of the film market and is likely to retain that dominant lead perhaps forever. But we at NYI assure you that there is currently a very healthy active interest in B&W, and we think it's high time we talked about this grand old timer.

Many of us, especially among younger photographers and those who only just recently began their photographic interests, only know color film and processing. B&W is alien corn, so to speak. That's partly due to intense advertising hype but also due to the severely limited availability of B&W laboratory facilities. If film manufacturers sell the public on the notion of color photography and bang the drum (very slowly) for B&W then it stands to reason that B&W commercial laboratories will gradually disappear. That seems to have been the case. But B&W is still here and is still thriving, thanks be to such giants in the film industry as Kodak, Ilford, and Agfa; others in the film industry have been less vigorous in this respect, concentrating more on color.

Why B&W you may ask, and it is a legitimate and logical question. There are numerous possible explanations. Here are a few, and perhaps you can think of additional reasons.

B&W photography is an abstraction actually. Abstraction, by definition, suggests that something is removed from its original place, thus changing the nature of the object. Since we view the world in color, the removal of color from our perception fits the definition of abstraction. If we take color out of photography, leaving only black and white and shades of gray, we have made the end product different enough from the original so that one's attention is surely aroused. In fact, in the early days of photography – the days of L.J.M. Daguerre and William Henry Fox Talbot – people were curious and puzzled why photographs were not in color. Furthermore, no real progress in color photography was made until the end of the 19th century. Even those color beginnings were very primitive compared to today's color technology. So, from the earliest days in photography, the phenomenon of black-and-white images prevailed and eventually even accepted as reality when, of course, it was not.

©NYI Student Paula M. Rose
But abstraction is not the only reason for the appeal of B&W photography. Certainly the ability of B&W to emphasize shape, form, and texture – uncluttered by color – is important. When a painter starts his work he usually begins with rough B&W sketches, using pencil, pen, charcoal, etc. The artist needs to nail down the general shape, form, even the texture of his subject before he adds the color. And he must approximate the interplay of light-and-dark tonalities on his subject, what we sometimes call chiaroscuro. So, in a sense, B&W photography functions as a kind of quick form of sketching; to many of us, that holds an instant appeal.

Also, in some cases, B&W carries with it a greater sense of realism than color does. That sounds strange, doesn't it, considering that we view the world in color? The problem with color photography, though, is that the colors it presents are often a far cry from the colors we find in the real world. Consider the color of blood. In reality it seems considerably different than it appears in color photography. Gory scenes photographed in color seem to be less repulsive and hence less realistic. Therefore, B&W seems to be well suited for documentary and photojournalistic photography. There are other valid reasons for choosing B&W photography, but let us move on now.

We need to discuss various types of B&W film, of course. But first we need to convince you how relatively easy it is to process B&W film right in your own facilities. That seems to be the biggest stumbling block that keeps people from trying B&W. You might assume that B&W printing would be next on the list, but we prefer to discuss B&W film after film development. What we're trying to do is to get a good B&W negative in your hands before we even consider constructing a darkroom and undergoing the relatively considerable expense involved in that undertaking!

You can find adequate B&W processing facilities in the major cities of North America and in the principal cities of much of the rest of the world. But if you can't there are two good alternatives: 1) developing and printing your B&W film in your own darkroom, and 2) using certain B&W film that can be developed and printed using color processes in color darkrooms found nearly everywhere.

Let's talk about working in your own facilities. "But," you exclaim, "I have no darkroom!" To this argument we say you don't really need one, at least not at this stage of the game.

Consider these stories, and they're supposed to be true, too. The late great Alfred Stieglitz (the father of modern American photography) loaded his 8x10 and 4x5 film holders under his dining room table. His darkroom? A long dark tablecloth draped generously over the table served to darken the area underneath. He developed his film and printed his images at night in an unlit attic and washed both negatives and prints in a bathtub. His contemporary, Edward Weston, draped dark cloths over the windows of his vintage Ford and loaded and unloaded his film holders inside the car. Not so remarkable a fact except, of course, that this was sometimes done in Death Valley or the Mojave Desert with temperatures reaching 125-degrees in the shade! We don't recommend either Stieglitz' or Weston's seemingly primitive method. but: where there is a will there is a way!

The first step is to learn how to develop a roll of B&W film in your own location. It's similar to baking a cake but a good deal easier (if not quite so tasty). Here's what you need to get started:

  1. A roll of undeveloped but exposed B&W film. We are presuming here that you are using 35mm film. The procedures for developing120/220 film are the same essentially as 35mm film but differ very slightly in the reel loading. Developing large format sheet film is also essentially the same as other film but with a few variations that need not concern us at this time.
  2. A developing tank and lid, made of either stainless steel or plastic; also, a stainless steel or plastic reel on which the film is to be loaded.
  3. A beer can opener, used to pry open the 35mm cartridge in the dark, and a pair of small scissors.
  4. A thermometer specifically made for darkroom work; do not use any other types of thermometers.
  5. Two 1-quart beakers. These can be made of almost any material but should be sturdy and resistant to chemical corrosion. If the beakers have graduated measurements on them, all the better.
  6. A stirring rod to be used when mixing chemicals; the rod can be made of any material impervious to chemical corrosion.
  7. Two film clips or clothes pins and a strong cord or wire to be stretched horizontally above your work table and at a height approximately 6' or so above the table. One clip or clothes pin fits on the cord or wire; the other clip or pin to be attached to the bottom of the film when the film is hung up to dry.
  8. One small measuring graduate, marked in increments from about ¼oz. or to about 5-8 oz.
  9. A timer of some sort, preferably one indicating both seconds and minutes. A clock or watch will do.
  10. .Two necessary chemicals: film developer and film fixer; a quart of each is handy, but larger and smaller amounts are also available.
  11. .A recent copy of the Kodak B&W Darkroom Data Guide, the most useful compendium of darkroom information available. There are similar instruction manuals available from other publishers as well.
  12. .A holding tray, large enough to contain your beakers of chemicals and your developing tank. You add water to this tray and place the beakers and tank in it. The tray and water help to keep your chemicals and film tank at approximately the same temperature throughout the film development.

Now you have to find a room that can be totally darkened. Film, especially very fast film, is very light sensitive and can easily be "fogged" (synonym for ruined) by even small amounts of stray light. Any material for blocking out the light can be used – paper, cloth, wood, metal, plastic, whatever – as long as all light is kept from striking the film!

Before beginning the actual loading of the film on to the reel it's a good idea to practice the loading (with the room lights on). Use an old exposed roll of film and repeatedly try loading the roll smoothly on to the reel. Most people master this technique within an hour or so.

There are a few practical hints that may help you to become expert at film-reel loading, though. First of all, make sure your reel is bone dry; any moisture on the reel may cause the film to stick in place and not run smoothly on to the reel. Make sure, too, that your reel is not in any way bent, a condition that will hinder proper loading. Also, when you finish shooting your roll do not wind it all the way back into the Film cartridge.

Rewind only until you feel the film leader disengage from the takeup spool; then stop rewinding immediately! When you are ready to load the film onto the reel pull out three inches of film (beyond the leader) and cut this length off the rest of the reel still inside the cartridge. Cut the film straight, never on the bias, and then round off the film edges at the sprocket holes. All of these procedures are done with the room light on, and they will make your job of loading the film on to the reel easier.

When you practice with the old exposed roll of film, you no doubt noticed that the film has to be fed into the reel smoothly and evenly. If any buckling occurs remove the film from the reel and start over again and as often as necessary until the film is fully and evenly on the reel. This, of course, is why it is necessary to practice in room light so that when you go into the dark everything will be successful. Serious prayer to the Photography Gods helps sometimes, too.

In next month's installment, we'll turn to the actual work at hand, namely, developing a roll of film.

 

Portions of this article and all images have been generously provided by the
New York Institute of Photography.
http://www.nyip.com

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Last modified: February 07, 2002