Processing
Black-and-White Film: Get Ready, Get Set.
THE REVIVAL OF
BLACK-AND-WHITE PHOTOGRAPHY
©NYI Student Gloria Restrepo
Perhaps a quarter of a century ago some of the pundits of
photography (synonym for camera magazine contributing editors) tolled the death knell for
black-and-white photography. Done, they mournfully intoned. B&W is dead,
gone, finished! Rest in peace, they said. The king is dead, long live the king and
it's name is color photography. As for B&W, of the dead say nothing but good.
But just as Mark Twain informed the world that the reports of his demise were premature so
let us now proclaim that B&W photography (and its film developing and printing) are
still with us. Not only with us but alive and kickin', as they say down yonder!
Does that mean that color photography has given up the ghost? Oh, certainly not, by no
means! Color photography still represents at least 95% of the film market and is likely to
retain that dominant lead perhaps forever. But we at NYI assure you that there is
currently a very healthy active interest in B&W, and we think it's high time we talked
about this grand old timer.
Many of us, especially among younger photographers and those who only just recently began
their photographic interests, only know color film and processing. B&W is alien corn,
so to speak. That's partly due to intense advertising hype but also due to the severely
limited availability of B&W laboratory facilities. If film manufacturers sell the
public on the notion of color photography and bang the drum (very slowly) for B&W then
it stands to reason that B&W commercial laboratories will gradually disappear. That
seems to have been the case. But B&W is still here and is still thriving, thanks be to
such giants in the film industry as Kodak, Ilford, and Agfa; others in the film industry
have been less vigorous in this respect, concentrating more on color.
Why B&W you may ask, and it is a legitimate and logical question. There are numerous
possible explanations. Here are a few, and perhaps you can think of additional reasons.
B&W photography is an abstraction actually. Abstraction, by definition, suggests that
something is removed from its original place, thus changing the nature of the object.
Since we view the world in color, the removal of color from our perception fits the
definition of abstraction. If we take color out of photography, leaving only black and
white and shades of gray, we have made the end product different enough from the original
so that one's attention is surely aroused. In fact, in the early days of photography
the days of L.J.M. Daguerre and William Henry Fox Talbot people were curious
and puzzled why photographs were not in color. Furthermore, no real progress in color
photography was made until the end of the 19th century. Even those color
beginnings were very primitive compared to today's color technology. So, from the earliest
days in photography, the phenomenon of black-and-white images prevailed and eventually
even accepted as reality when, of course, it was not.
©NYI Student Paula M. Rose
But abstraction is not the only reason for the appeal of B&W
photography. Certainly the ability of B&W to emphasize shape, form, and texture
uncluttered by color is important. When a painter starts his work he usually begins
with rough B&W sketches, using pencil, pen, charcoal, etc. The artist needs to nail
down the general shape, form, even the texture of his subject before he adds the color.
And he must approximate the interplay of light-and-dark tonalities on his subject, what we
sometimes call chiaroscuro. So, in a sense, B&W photography functions as a kind of
quick form of sketching; to many of us, that holds an instant appeal.
Also, in some cases, B&W carries with it a greater sense of realism than color does.
That sounds strange, doesn't it, considering that we view the world in color? The problem
with color photography, though, is that the colors it presents are often a far cry from
the colors we find in the real world. Consider the color of blood. In reality it seems
considerably different than it appears in color photography. Gory scenes photographed in
color seem to be less repulsive and hence less realistic. Therefore, B&W seems to be
well suited for documentary and photojournalistic photography. There are other valid
reasons for choosing B&W photography, but let us move on now.
We need to discuss various types of B&W film, of course. But
first we need to convince you how relatively easy it is to process B&W film right in
your own facilities. That seems to be the biggest stumbling block that keeps people from
trying B&W. You might assume that B&W printing would be next on the list, but we
prefer to discuss B&W film after film development. What we're trying to do is to get a
good B&W negative in your hands before we even consider constructing a darkroom and
undergoing the relatively considerable expense involved in that undertaking!
You can find adequate B&W processing facilities in the major cities of North America
and in the principal cities of much of the rest of the world. But if you can't there are
two good alternatives: 1) developing and printing your B&W film in your own darkroom,
and 2) using certain B&W film that can be developed and printed using color processes
in color darkrooms found nearly everywhere.
Let's talk about working in your own facilities. "But," you exclaim, "I
have no darkroom!" To this argument we say you don't really need one, at least not at
this stage of the game.
Consider these stories, and they're supposed to be true, too. The late great Alfred
Stieglitz (the father of modern American photography) loaded his 8x10 and 4x5 film holders
under his dining room table. His darkroom? A long dark tablecloth draped generously over
the table served to darken the area underneath. He developed his film and printed his
images at night in an unlit attic and washed both negatives and prints in a bathtub. His
contemporary, Edward Weston, draped dark cloths over the windows of his vintage Ford and
loaded and unloaded his film holders inside the car. Not so remarkable a fact except, of
course, that this was sometimes done in Death Valley or the Mojave Desert with
temperatures reaching 125-degrees in the shade! We don't recommend either Stieglitz' or
Weston's seemingly primitive method. but: where there is a will there is a way!
The first step is to learn how to develop a roll of B&W film in your own location.
It's similar to baking a cake but a good deal easier (if not quite so tasty). Here's what
you need to get started:
- A roll of undeveloped
but exposed B&W film. We are presuming here that you are using 35mm film. The
procedures for developing120/220 film are the same essentially as 35mm film but differ
very slightly in the reel loading. Developing large format sheet film is also essentially
the same as other film but with a few variations that need not concern us at this time.
- A developing tank and
lid, made of either stainless steel or plastic; also, a stainless steel or plastic reel on
which the film is to be loaded.
- A beer can opener, used
to pry open the 35mm cartridge in the dark, and a pair of small scissors.
- A thermometer
specifically made for darkroom work; do not use any other types of thermometers.
- Two 1-quart beakers.
These can be made of almost any material but should be sturdy and resistant to chemical
corrosion. If the beakers have graduated measurements on them, all the better.
- A stirring rod to be
used when mixing chemicals; the rod can be made of any material impervious to chemical
corrosion.
- Two film clips or
clothes pins and a strong cord or wire to be stretched horizontally above your work table
and at a height approximately 6' or so above the table. One clip or clothes pin fits on
the cord or wire; the other clip or pin to be attached to the bottom of the film when the
film is hung up to dry.
- One small measuring
graduate, marked in increments from about ¼oz. or to about 5-8 oz.
- A timer of some sort,
preferably one indicating both seconds and minutes. A clock or watch will do.
- .Two necessary
chemicals: film developer and film fixer; a quart of each is handy, but larger and smaller
amounts are also available.
- .A recent copy of the
Kodak B&W Darkroom Data Guide, the most useful compendium of darkroom information
available. There are similar instruction manuals available from other publishers as well.
- .A holding tray, large
enough to contain your beakers of chemicals and your developing tank. You add water to
this tray and place the beakers and tank in it. The tray and water help to keep your
chemicals and film tank at approximately the same temperature throughout the film
development.
Now you have to find a
room that can be totally darkened. Film, especially very fast film, is very light
sensitive and can easily be "fogged" (synonym for ruined) by even small amounts
of stray light. Any material for blocking out the light can be used paper, cloth,
wood, metal, plastic, whatever as long as all light is kept from striking the film!
Before beginning the actual loading of the film on to the reel it's a good idea to
practice the loading (with the room lights on). Use an old exposed roll of film and
repeatedly try loading the roll smoothly on to the reel. Most people master this technique
within an hour or so.
There are a few practical hints that may help you to become
expert at film-reel loading, though. First of all, make sure your reel is bone dry; any
moisture on the reel may cause the film to stick in place and not run smoothly on to the
reel. Make sure, too, that your reel is not in any way bent, a condition that will hinder
proper loading. Also, when you finish shooting your roll do not wind it all the way back
into the Film cartridge.
Rewind only until you feel the film leader disengage from the takeup spool; then stop
rewinding immediately! When you are ready to load the film onto the reel pull out three
inches of film (beyond the leader) and cut this length off the rest of the reel still
inside the cartridge. Cut the film straight, never on the bias, and then round off the
film edges at the sprocket holes. All of these procedures are done with the room light on,
and they will make your job of loading the film on to the reel easier.
When you practice with the old exposed roll of film, you no doubt
noticed that the film has to be fed into the reel smoothly and evenly. If any buckling
occurs remove the film from the reel and start over again and as often as necessary until
the film is fully and evenly on the reel. This, of course, is why it is necessary to
practice in room light so that when you go into the dark everything will be successful.
Serious prayer to the Photography Gods helps sometimes, too.
In next month's installment, we'll turn to the actual work at hand, namely, developing
a roll of film.
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